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CARTIER & MUMBAI: FOR THE LOVE OF STONES
The Maison’s relationship with India is defined by a mutual fascination with the beauty of natural gemstones and the power of style. As a new Cartier boutique opens in Mumbai, the rich and precious legacy of this shared love is revealed.
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![Telegrams sent by Jacques Cartier during his travels in India in February 1937](https://images.prismic.io/yearbook-2023/02b73ee0-bd38-4045-a5db-c2fbfd137575_220114_CARfffffTIER_SANTOS_JB_02_369_V09_DEF_RVB.jpg?auto=compress&w=1440&dpr=2&format=png)
Jacques Cartier with Indian gemstone dealers. Photo from Jacques Cartier's album recording his voyage to India in 1911
![Jacques Cartier with Indian gemstone dealers. Photo from Jacques Cartier's album recording his voyage to India in 1911](https://images.prismic.io/yearbook-2023/c9ca123e-acca-41dc-bf0d-a7f0e165b908_03+1.jpg?auto=compress&rect=0%2C0%2C2305%2C1080&w=1440&h=1457&dpr=2&format=png)
BEGINNING IN STYLE
In 1911, Jacques Cartier, grandson of the Maison’s founder, first traveled to India from the London branch to appreciate the pearl market and meet the suppliers. Another motivation for his travels was the opportunity to begin forging relationships with clients and Maharajas in the region.
Once in India, Jacques found himself entranced by the traditional craft skills of local artisans. As he traveled the subcontinent, including his first official visit to Mumbai noted on February 24th, 1912, he kept a diary and took many photographs of this trip. Here, he remarked upon the impressive gem-setting techniques, and especially the art of stone carving. This fascination would go on to have a profound effect on the
Maison’s style.
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“Vase of flowers” Brooch
Cartier London, 1928. Platinum, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, natural pearls
TUTTI FRUTTI BLOSSOMS
In 1925, the first foliate-inspired bracelet, featuring carved precious stones on paved platinum branches, appeared at the Maison. The red and green color contrast of rubies and emeralds was traditional in India. Cartier took the daring decision to add blue and made this profusion of color a design signature, combining rubies, emeralds and sapphires, each one carved and shaped into a leaf, flower, bud or berry.
These pieces grew in creativity and popularity throughout the 1920s, enriching the Art Deco period perhaps due to this unusual color palette amongst the world of Western jewelry. The creations embraced the strength of the original aesthetic codes, championed by the legendary Creative Director Jeanne Toussaint from the 1930s, where the use of vibrant colors became a defining factor in the “Toussaint taste.”
In the 1970s, jewelry experts and journalists began to apply the label “Tutti Frutti” to this style, which has become inextricably linked with the Maison.
![Cliquet Brooch, Cartier London, 1924. Platinum, white gold, diamonds, emeralds](https://images.prismic.io/yearbook-2023/fe2524e7-2b8b-4c53-8b68-f592d7175817_22011fgretgr4_CARTIER_SANTOS_JB_03_272_V12_DEF_RVB.jpg?auto=compress&w=1440&dpr=2&format=png)
![“Tutti Frutti” strap Bracelet, Cartier Paris, 1925. Platinum, diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, onyx, enamel](https://images.prismic.io/yearbook-2023/4163f1a4-d860-4c0d-a98b-2cb7c96d630a_220114_CArtgRTIER_SANTOS_JB_02_369_V09_DEF_RVB.jpg?auto=compress&w=1440&dpr=2&format=png)
A LASTING IMPRESSION
Beyond the carved precious stones, the motifs, and even flora and fauna of India, also left their traces on Cartier style. Throughout the archives, there are numerous examples. Mandala, lotus and paisley motifs speak instantly of Indian style and artistic flair. The appearance of local species of elephants, tigers and snakes marks a fascination with its wild and marvelous fauna; untamed, magnetic and seductive, their charms found a natural place in the Maison’s menagerie. Head ornaments, turban jewelry and aigrettes were popular among Indian clients and later reimagined in the Art Deco style for the high society ladies of Paris, London and New York.
Through book collections, sketchpads and the personal photographs of Jacques Cartier, these influences are well-documented. The creations themselves stand testament to just how significant they were, in particular for the High Jewelry collections, where their traces are seen up until the present day and where they continue to inspire new creations. For Jacqueline Karachi, the Maison’s Creative Director of High Jewelry, “India, a country of lights and contrasts, captures our imagination, awakens our senses and fascinates us with its refined exuberance. Sensuality and subtlety are in perfect harmony. India, with its rich stylistic vocabulary, stimulates our creativity by offering the wealth of its bright colors and the generosity of its motifs. India is also a country of exceptional craftsmanship in the area of stones and their cutting. It is a unique and ancestral savoir-faire, in perpetual evolution.”
![© VINCENT MCCLURE / ATELIER LUCILLE VIAUD](https://images.prismic.io/yearbook-2023/69bb60bb-85c0-45b5-9bb2-573c419182e7_03rferf+1.jpg?auto=compress&rect=0%2C0%2C1129%2C960&w=710&h=1275&dpr=2&format=png)
A BEAUTY EMBODIED
A true representation of the values of creativity, universality and open-mindedness that so deeply define the Cartier spirit, Deepika Padukone was chosen as an ambassador for the Maison in October 2022. The Indian actress and producer is a voice of national and global resonance, remaining true to her roots while constantly balancing modernity and tradition. She represents the importance of family and community, as well as Bollywood glamour, where a sense of celebration, light and color creates a festive spirit that is shared by Cartier.
![© VINCENT MCCLURE / ATELIER LUCILLE VIAUD](https://images.prismic.io/yearbook-2023/8e2ef330-7595-4f2e-b0e7-0b19dc33ab5a_03eee+1.jpg?auto=compress&rect=0%2C0%2C1129%2C960&w=710&h=1275&dpr=2&format=png)
WELCOME TO CARTIER MUMBAI
This rich history continues with the Maison’s latest opening: Cartier Mumbai. Behind the front doors, a mosaic by Atelier Lilikpó welcomes guests, depicting the intense and beautiful gaze of the tiger: emblematic of India and a long-term figure in the Cartier bestiary. This is the Maison’s first boutique in the city, a cultural and cinematic center of India, and represents the strength of this mutual fascination. The open-plan space, inspired by the colors and vibrancy of the region, invites Mumbai locals and global visitors alike to discover the full range of Cartier collections.