Chapter two - article four
Fur Setting
A Panther Secret
Where does this figure come from? To what does it owe its surprising vitality? Cartier’s jeweled panthers require a wide range of skills, the most iconic of which is the fur setting. A technique unique to the Maison, it consists of setting the stones with grains of metal folded into tiny threads to reproduce the effect of the animal’s coat.
Panthère de Cartier necklace White gold, onyx, emeralds, diamonds
If you look closely at the panther, you’ll be able to see the little lines, long known as “hair” spots. Their artistry is driven by a single desire: to breathe life into the animal. The choice of stones reflects this same ambition. It entails giving the paving, at scale, a continuous appearance that emphasizes and magnifies each aspect of the animal. Attitude, gait - the diameter of the diamond must fit the panther’s musculature; everything must be legible beyond the paving, crafted so the movement remains. Polygonal onyx and sapphire spots set the pace. The technical jewelry-making challenge is to gather them, arrange them, and cut them by hand one by one to give them more life. They should be larger on the more prominent parts of the animal, such as the back, and smaller on the flanks, disappearing altogether on the white belly. Their arrangement follows a precise order that takes into account the distance between them and the number of diamonds separating them. Moving one means moving them all. One panther can take more than a year to complete. And therein lies its humanity and elegance.
Panthère de Cartier bracelet Yellow gold, onyx, diamonds
Next article




