Jeanne Toussaint was known first for her mind and creative vision, but also and above all for her impeccable taste — the famous “Toussaint taste.” These two traits inspired Louis Cartier, who invited her to design bags as early as 1920 before entrusting her with oversight of an extensive line of accessories in 1925.

Known throughout Paris, she was nicknamed “La Panthère” after the strong feline, her double, and became inextricable from her Cartier vanity cases or cigarette cases adorned with panthers. And so the panther became her signature.

Over time, this bond intensified, for Jeanne Toussaint was never done with the panther. Little by little, she drew closer to the animal she would eventually bring to life. At the rue de la Paix studios, when she became creative director in 1933, she imagined a new three-dimensional sculptural silhouette perched atop an emerald — a proud, powerful panther. In keeping with her image of womanhood, it was to become one of the most evocative pieces of jewelry of the 20th century.

Its admirers included leading women like Daisy Fellowes and María Félix, who recognized themselves in this symbol and decided where, why, how and when to wear it. Their common denominator? Cutting-edge style, audacity, independence and taste in jewelry with character.