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Chapter three - article five

The Panther:
A Timeless Heroine

Driven by the same power, magnetism and strength of character, Cartier and the Panther are inseparable. From one era to the next, the animal and the Maison have written a shared history of boldness and creativity. Both a predator and a protector, the creature appears throughout the creations in the Maison’s universe, over which she reigns as an indisputable emblem. It’s this close bond that the Maison has chosen to put in the spotlight in this illustrated story. 

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The Panther's story began in 1914 at Rue de la Paix, the Maison’s historic address, when her spotted motif appeared for the first time on a watch.
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It was also here that Jeanne Toussaint gave the animal a three-dimensional sculptural form from the 1930s onwards.

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Selection of documents from the Cartier Paris archives and heritage documentation

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Jeanne Toussaint photographed by Henry Clarke in her 13 rue de la Paix office, 1967

The Panther embodies notions of beauty and elegance through many representations, both naturalistic and more stylized. 

Design for a panther heads brooch. Cartier Paris, 1968
Design for a panther heads brooch. Cartier Paris, 1968
Necklace, Sixième Sens by Cartier, 2021
Necklace, Sixième Sens by Cartier, 2021
The majestic Panther appears on an invitation to a jewelry exhibition by artist George Barbier and commissioned by Cartier in 1914
The majestic Panther appears on an invitation to a jewelry exhibition by artist George Barbier and commissioned by Cartier in 1914
Image designed for Cartier by Nicole Wisniak and published in the magazine, Egoïste, No.14, 2000

Image designed for Cartier by Nicole Wisniak and published in the magazine, Egoïste, No.14, 2000

The Panther is an expression of a very Parisian style, linked intrinsically to the prestigious Rue de la Paix address.

Acrobatic and playful, the Panther bringsthe Maison’s creations to life and boldly  traverses the jewelry flora. 

Necklace, Résonances de Cartier, 2017
Necklace, Résonances de Cartier, 2017
Necklace, Sixième Sens by Cartier, 2021
Necklace, Sixième Sens by Cartier, 2021
Panthère de Cartier necklace White gold, set with black nephrite jade, emerald, onyx, and brilliant-cut diamonds
Panthère de Cartier necklace White gold, set with black nephrite jade, emerald, onyx, and brilliant-cut diamonds
Design for a panther brooch, Cartier Paris, conceived in 1949. Sold to the Duke of Windsor
Design for a panther brooch, Cartier Paris, conceived in 1949. Sold to the Duke of Windsor

The Panther possesses innate elegance and grace, which is captured by the Maison’s jewelers. 

Panthère de Cartier bracelet White gold, onyx, set with 4 emeralds and 485 brilliant-cut diamonds
Panthère de Cartier bracelet White gold, onyx, set with 4 emeralds and 485 brilliant-cut diamonds
Design for a panther bracelet. Cartier Paris, 1958
Design for a panther bracelet. Cartier Paris, 1958
Cartier Paris advertisement presenting a panther brooch and a chimera bracelet, 1968
Cartier Paris advertisement presenting a panther brooch and a chimera bracelet, 1968
Panther head-to-head bracelets multiply the essence of the feline and her powerful form, revealing her ferocious charm in a liberated burst of abstract design.

In 1948, Jeanne Toussaint gave a three-dimensional body to the Panther with an emerald cabochon brooch commissioned for the Duchess of Windsor; the following year, the Duchess acquired a second brooch, this time in platinum, paved with sapphires, with the Panther sitting atop an extraordinary 152.35-carat sapphire cabochon.

Panther brooch, Cartier Paris, 1948. Special commission by the Duke of Windsor in gold, enamel and emerald.

Panther brooch, Cartier Paris, 1948. Special commission by the Duke of Windsor in gold, enamel and emerald

The jeweled vitality of the Panther enhances the Maison’s watch creations. 

Panthère Entrelacée watch High Jewelry visible hour, mechanical movement with manual winding, caliber 101
Panthère Entrelacée watch High Jewelry visible hour, mechanical movement with manual winding, caliber 101

Proud and untamable, Cartier’s naturalist Panther stamps her authority through her attitude. 

Project for a panther brooch. Cartier Paris, circa 1969
Project for a panther brooch. Cartier Paris, circa 1969
The Panther lavishes its power and allure on actress Monica Bellucci
The Panther lavishes its power and allure on actress Monica Bellucci
This bracelet, acquired by the Duchess of Windsor in 1952, features a delicate panther ready to pounce
This bracelet, acquired by the Duchess of Windsor in 1952, features a delicate panther ready to pounce
Model wearing Cartier Panthère earrings, ring, bracelets and brooch, photographed by Arthur Elgort. Photograph published in Vogue Italia, March 1992
Model wearing Cartier Panthère earrings, ring, bracelets and brooch, photographed by Arthur Elgort. Photograph published in Vogue Italia, March 1992
The Panther gives actress Vanessa Kirby, ambassador of the Panther campaigns, a magnetic allure
The Panther gives actress Vanessa Kirby, ambassador of the Panther campaigns, a magnetic allure
The Panther reinforces every gesture made by strong personalities like singer Juliette Gréco
The Panther reinforces every gesture made by strong personalities like singer Juliette Gréco
The Duchess of Windsor, a Panther devotee, wears her brooch on her belt
The Duchess of Windsor, a Panther devotee, wears her brooch on her belt
One of the Maison’s most important clients and a passionate admirer of Cartier’s jewelry fauna, Mexican actress María Félix wears her Panther brooch and bracelet with defiance
One of the Maison’s most important clients and a passionate admirer of Cartier’s jewelry fauna, Mexican actress María Félix wears her Panther brooch and bracelet with defiance

The Panther reigns over the Maison’s flora and fauna.

Nothing romantic or sappy, just a bold representation of nature, decisiveness, and freedom of spirit.

Design, stone setting and paving: at Cartier, the idea is not to imitate nature but to pay homage to it, to breathe life into the Panther and infuse her with personality.

From Paris to the ends of the earth and from the jungle to the city, the Panther is a traveling heroine passing boldly through various landscapes. 

From Paris to the ends of the earth and from the jungle to the city, the Panther is a traveling heroine passing boldly through various landscapes
From Paris to the ends of the earth and from the jungle to the city, the Panther is a traveling heroine passing boldly through various landscapes
Necklace, 2010. Platinum, petrified wood, diamonds, fine pearls, emeralds and onyx
Necklace, 2010. Platinum, petrified wood, diamonds, fine pearls, emeralds and onyx
A new year for the Panther in China under the sign of the snake
A new year for the Panther in China under the sign of the snake
Sunset on the lagoon for the Panther during the Venice International Film Festival, for which Cartier is the Main Sponsor
Sunset on the lagoon for the Panther during the Venice International Film Festival, for which Cartier is the Main Sponsor
Next stop: the spectacular Riyadh, as the Panther overlooks the urban panorama from atop the Maison’s famous red box
Next stop: the spectacular Riyadh, as the Panther overlooks the urban panorama from atop the Maison’s famous red box

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